Can't remember the name of the function.Īre you using Helicon Focus? As far as I know, Helicon Focus takes that into account when it "renders" your stack. On my first stacking session I made an elementary mistake: didn't tell Photoshop to resize the images to compensate for the size differences caused by focusing at different distances. Not sure about the exact nature of your problem. You're lucky then! I, for one, prefer to set the camera on a tripod, shoot an unmoving subject, set the parameters in my camera, and have the camera take all the shots by itself.Ī shot like this that you posted would not suffer from halos, since there is no background interfering with the subject. It is a viable option though and one which many photographers use. Yes, you can focus stack in Photoshop, but it’s slow, sometimes painfully so, and, more importantly, the results are not always perfect. Well, maybe focus rails enable you to avoid halos. I don’t need another program You would be both right and wrong. I think it was about $35, and reasonably well constructed. The technique consists of two parts: (1) shooting multiple images with sharpness at different distance, and (2) combining these images in post-processing to produce a single file with sharpness throughout the image. IMO the best solution is to get the stack right in the first place, (I know, impossible in some cases.) I mostly use a focusing rail now, and in most cased, I don't need to do any touch-ups:īy focus rail do you mean you are moving the camera AND the lens, not refocusing the lens? I have been thinking about getting a Stackshot rail and controller for this. You can spend hours fixing little problems in stacking. In my experience, a 'halo' can come from: 1) object moves, 2) images are not spaced closely enough, 3) something bad happened. Maybe you could post a screenshot that shows the defect you are trying to fix? Help is provided throughout the user interface to make the process relatively easy even for new users. You can really tell that some serious work went into creating the intelligence built into Helicon Focus. It's tricky but I've been doing it by cloning, since I'm unsure of where to set parameters, and have read that increasing the radius can compromise image sharpness. Areas of low contrast tend retain more detail in Helicon than Photoshop too. I was wondering if it is preferable to avoid halos by increasing the radius in Helicon, or by post processing using cloning in either Helicon Focus or Photoshop. I'm very new to Helicon Focus and focus bracketing/stacking in general.
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